Honivogl Gruner Veltliner Smaragd 2023 Franz Hirtzberger

Professional reviews

Vinous (97)

The 2023 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl was harvested partly in the loess-dominated Axpoint vineyard, with the majority coming from the rockier foot of the Singerriedel site. Alluring fruit on the nose combines juicy yellow apple, freshest green pear, ivy and a touch of yeast. The palate is more reticent, showing its yeasty mid-palate savory miso but dialing back the fruit. This is compact in body, generous in promise, with a tingling notion on the palate that unites white pepper and zestiness. The wine is mouth-filling long after the last sip, presenting an understated, complete roundness that is accomplished and elegant. (Bone-dry)

BOW (9)

James Suckling (98)

Imposing with effusive, exotic-fruit aromas, particularly fresh pineapple and mangosteens but also just a hint of durian. Wonderful floral delicacy too. What a fabulously silky texture, gliding over the full-bodied palate so gracefully. Also, this has excellent structure that gently builds in the very long, delicately stony, mineral finish. Drink or hold.