The Macallan 18 Years Old Distilled 1996 43% 1996

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Serge Valentin (87)

It’s the latest batch of the well-known and now very expensive 18yo ‘sherry’. It’s actually not pure 1996, as it says ‘1996 and earlier years.’ I had found last year’s 1995 very excellent (WF 89.) Colour: amber. Nose: feels like home. It’s probably not as deep and complex as the pre-1980 vintages, and certainly more focused on fruitcake and toffee, but indeed it’s a lovely nose. Glazed chestnuts, honey sauce, touches of fennel or dill, dried porcinis, cigars, toasted brioche and, yeah, sultanas. Really a perfect nose, and the 43% vol. make it pleasantly approachable, in both senses of the word. Mouth: it’s a little narrow, perhaps, less majestic and ample than the old ones for sure, and maybe a little too toffee-ed and malty (Ovaltine-malty.) Raisin-filled chocolate, praline, butterscotch. The mouth feel is perfect, though. Finish: good length, spicy and toffee-ish. Peppered fudge. Comments: very, very good, of course, I’m just missing a little more complexity on the palate. But as they say, ‘it does what it says on the tin.’