Madeira Bual 1978 Cossart Gordon

Professional reviews

BOW (8.50)

Jancis Robinson (17.50)

These grapes came from Calheta, the warmest, sunniest part of Madeira on the south side, on vineyards 100 to 300 m above sea level, exposed to strong sea winds. Soils here are deep clay, low in phosphorous, high in potassium, calcium and magnesium, with a medium level of organic matter. The vines are planted in trellis and espalier systems. Hand-picked, trodden in traditional wooden lagares and then aged in old oak barrels in the canteiro system for 43 years, first in Funchal and later in Caniçal. 1,294 bottles – a mix of halves (204), 75-cl bottles (1,047), magnums (24), double magnums (16), melchiors (3). TA 8.51 g/l, VA 1.11 g/l, RS 105 g/l, pH 3.33.
Winemaker Francisco Albuquerque says that this particular Bual smells of exotic woods – cedar, balsam. It does. It smells of wet, dark-cured tobacco leaves and bushfire smoke, raisins steeped in brandy and bourbon barrels. Considering the richness and power of this wine, it is stunningly fresh. The finish is bone dry. Dark dark spices, manuka honey spliced with sharp grilled satsuma, walnut syrup spiked with clove and a rapier of acidity. As deep as a double bass. A masterpiece in brunaille. And a long, long, tingling finish. Food pairings: slow-cooked beef cheek in a dark-chocolate and chilli mole sauce; wild-mushroom tart; parma ham and fig salad with a walnut and date-syrup dressing. (TC)

Wine Enthusiast (95)

Sitting on an island in two 650-liter wood casks for 43 years was good for this wine. It offers intense richness and layers of fine toastiness. The wood shows alongside mature hints of fruit and nut flavors. Its medium sweetness is well balanced by the typically concentrated acidity. It's now time to enjoy it, although the bottle will also stay in great condition for many years. Roger Voss

Decanter (93)

Dark treacle, leather, parmesan and balsamic aromatics lend great complexity to this wine. An almost savoury quality defies the well-integrated residual sugar. Mature, distinctive and fabulous!