Morstein Riesling GG Alte Reben 2014 Weingut Keller

Professional reviews

Robert Parker (94)

Keller's 2014 Morstein Riesling GG Alte Reben comes from old Sylvaner vines that were grafted with Rieslings in 2009. The wine has a very clear and deep, darker toned stony/flinty aroma than Kirchspiel or Abtserde and shows clear stone fruit aromas along with herbal flavors. There were probably more overripe (at least highly ripe) grapes than in the Abtserde since the bouquet reveals a high density and ripe fruit aromas. Powerful and intense on the palate this is a firmly structured, terroir-driven Riesling with a lot of concentration and juiciness but, perhaps, less precision and freshness than the Abtserde at this early stadium. Indeed Keller accepts more overripe berries than in former years and rates all his grand cru grapes by daily tastings. He does not pick them before they receive a top score. He points out that the 2014 Morstein has less alcohol than the corresponding Abtserde. One can say perhaps that the Morstein reflects more the old vines on colored clay soils on limestone whereas the Abtserde is a light-footed electric dancer on the knife's edge.

BOW (8.50)