A very wide spectrum of fruit aromas pour from the glass, from Asian pear to a hint of exotic fruit, via mandarin orange. However, as it aerates, the cool, herbal side to this seriously structured, but finely etched dry riesling shows itself. Very long, dark finish that’s got so much tension.
The hotter vintages have slightly changed the character of the Hubacker. I still remember it as a leaner wine, whereas today it has become a little more generous in terms of fruit, even adding gentle exotic touches to the local peach, pear and apple. Fine nuances of spice and wet pebble add complexity. But as always Klaus Peter Keller manages to get plenty of tension and vibrancy into the finish. (MS)