Clos St. Denis 2006 Domaine Dujac
The 2006 Clos St Denis from Domaine Dujac, tasted blind, is developing into one of the best wines in the Côte de Nuits apropos this inconsistent vintage. It comes at you with its vibrant raspberry fruit - no holding back here. There is a touch of glossiness at first and then this makes way for subtle game and leather scents (in fact, one fellow taster commented that it was just a little sweaty, but in a good way). The palate is underpinned by plenty of sweet red berry fruit, that gaminess continuing from the aromatics, erring just slightly towards a Côte-Rôtie-like finish. There is an opulence here, but it is not garish or vulgar. It's just a Clos Saint Denis self-aware of its quality and has nurtured a bit of...cockiness. This is well worth hunting down.
The superlatives don't stop with the Clos de la Roche as this wine is as worthy. The nose here is quite simply spectacular with an incredibly complex and kaleidoscopic array of mostly black fruit and floral aromas, particularly violet and rose petal nuanced with anise that slides gracefully into the full, sweet and equally mouth coating flavors that drench the palate in?seve?on the less powerful but notably finer finish that seems to go on and on without end. The Clos de la Roche and Clos St. Denis are qualitative twins and it's a tough choice between the power and weight of the former versus the purity, refinement and depth of the latter.