Barolo Cerequio 1999 Roberto Voerzio
1999 Barolo Cerequio—Dark ruby. Voerzio’s Cerequio is usually my favorite of his wines and the 1999 is truly special. It opens with a beautiful floral nose, followed by suggestions of spices and cocoa, then melds seamlessly onto a palate packed with layers of super-ripe fruit. Boasting notable concentration, as well as definition, length and finesse, it is a great effort for the vintage. In my blind tastings of the 1999 Barolos, this Cerequio was one of the standouts. Like the Brunate it should drink well to age 20. 95+/drink after 2009, 04/06 Roberto Voerzio’s philosophy is all about the vineyard, where he maintains what are by far the most dramatically low yields to be seen in the Barolo zone. Although Voerzio prefers barriques for aging his wines, vinification remains fairly traditional with fermentations lasting 15 or so days. After the alcoholic fermentation is complete the wines are racked into stainless steel for their malos, which Voerzio prefers for its cleanliness. The cellar is warmed to induce the malolactic fermentations and the malos are usually completed by the end of the fall. The wines are then moved into barriques where they age prior to being bottled without the aid of fining/filtration. Pure and expressive in a style that is neither modern nor traditional, these are wines that reflect the highly individual style of their maker as well as the profound voice of La Morra’s finest sites. A bottle of the 1992 Cerequio, from a vintage most people would describe as abysmal, was still in great shape when last tasted in 2004. This set of 1999 Barolos is breathtaking.
Extremely elegant. Very pretty aromas of plums, cappuccino and light spice. Full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long finish. Refined and seductive.