Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1990 Luciano Sandrone

Professional reviews

Robert Parker (96)

The 1990 Barolo Cannubi Boschis is a massive, dark Barolo loaded with dark cherries, tobacco, grilled herbs, menthol and sweet French oak. Stylistically it could not be more different than the 1989 in its texture, weight and flavor profile. Still deeply colored, the 1990 Cannubi Boschis offers incredible textural richness and depth, with a finish that lasts forever. With time in the glass, the wine’s inner perfume emerges, adding further dimensions of complexity and nuance. The 1990 Cannubi Boschis remains a benchmark wine for Sandrone (and Piedmont as a whole), but in recent years it has become clear that the estate’s finest newer releases are on a different level. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015.

Luciano Sandrone was still working full time at Marchesi di Barolo when he made his fabulous 1989 Barolo Cannubi Boschis. In the spring of 1990 Sandrone left the Marchesi in order to devote all of his energy to his own estate, and the rest, as they say, is history. Sandrone’s Barolos were built on elegance from the outset. Although Sandrone was clearly one of the early leaders of the modern school, his wines avoided the excesses of the mid and late 1990s. These meticulously hand-crafted, artisanal Barolos were vinified in steel and cement with manual pumpovers and punchdowns, then racked into 500-liter tonneaux where the wines underwent malolactic fermentation and subsequent aging. I can’t think of another property where the stylistic shift from somewhat traditional to decidedly contemporary is as noticeable within such a short period of time as it is here between 1989 and 1990. While the 1989 Cannubi Boschis (and the Barolos that preceded it) still had a foot in the past, the 1990 is clearly a forward-looking wine. Much of that is attributable to the ripeness of the 1990 vintage and the introduction of new French oak barrels from the cooper Vicard that year. I tasted the 1990 Barolo Le Vigne and Barolo Cannubi Boschis at the estate, and have had the 1989 and 1990 Barolo Cannubi Boschis from a number of cellars, including mine and that of Robert Parker, over the course of the last few months.
Luciano Sandrone's wines have never been more elegant than they are today. The French oak is increasingly well balanced, and the at times excessive heaviness of some prior vintages is long gone. Simply put, Luciano Sandrone is at the top of his game. Never one to be satisfied, this year Sandrone showed me a number of experimental wines, including a barrel sample of 2009 Barolo Le Vigne vinified with 100% stems, an approach that is virtually unheard of in Piedmont. Although this wine will ultimately be blended into the Barolo Le Vigne, the all-stems Barolo was huge, explosive and totally compelling. Sandrone fans have much to look forward to, as the 2008s and 2009s appear quite promising at this admittedly early stage. As for the 2007s, they are off the charts.

Winespectator (97)

Massive yet classy. Dark ruby color. Fabulous aromas of fresh berries, cherries and minerals. Full-bodied, with loads of round, ripe tannins and a long, long finish. A joy to taste. Better with more age.--Piedmont retrospective.

BOW (9.75)