Glenury Royal 23 Years Old Rare Malts Selection 61.3% 1971

Professional reviews

Serge Valentin (91)

Another of the more famous Rare Malts expressions, and pretty much the only one from active sherry. It’s been a long time since I tried this so I’m very happy to revisit it. Colour: amber. Nose: It’s funny how even with the obviously rich cloak of sherry, this is still extremely ‘Rare Malts’ in style. Which is to say: power, austerity, directness and concentration. Leathery, leafy, mulchy, earthy and showing lots of bitter marmalade, pin resin, tobacco and sweet herbal liqueurs. Orange oils, dark chocolate and an impression of pot pourri. With water: softer, leafier and more towards cocoa, sultanas, fruit loaf and dried mint leaves. Mouth: hot and prickling with paprika, natural tar, hot leather, kirsch and lots of wee mentholated and eucalyptus notes. Slightly gamey and rather peppery. With water: works terrifically with water. Much easier and more open and generous. Minty, blood orange cordial, dark fruits soaked in brandy and more of these nice leathery and gamey touches. Things like Bovril, camphor and prune eau de vie. Finish: long, orangey - more marmalade - mentholated, some nicely tannic black tea, sooty and getting rather more towards herbal infusions and vegetal broths. Comments: Totally excellent, although I think this may be an example of a bottling which we can look upon with a degree of revisionism and say that, while terrific, isn’t perhaps the total masterpiece some proclaimed it to be ‘back in the day’. Whenever that was. I love it, but I think it’s a tad brutal and domineering at times.

Dave Broom (87)

Dave Broom from scotchwhisky.com says:

NOSE

Unusually for a Rare Malts bottling, this has a deep colour: polished copper/amber. The strength is high, but the whisky is so rich it doesn’t show. Rather, you notice a dense, stewing fruitiness with a delicate tropical edge. Then comes an iris-like note, Parma Violet, roasting corn and sweet leather. As it opens (and with a little water), there’s more animalic/amber notes.

PALATE

Given the lushness of the nose, this has a surprisingly dry and smoky start with some dusty tannins on show. All has settled by the mid-palate, where the concentrated fruits lurk. Water softens things down – maybe too much – bringing out mixed fruit compote.

FINISH

Long and set, with a hint of smoke.

CONCLUSION

Glenury Royal remains a rare sighting. This is one of the finest bottlings you’ll come across.

RIGHT PLACE, RIGHT TIME

A Parisian flâneur passes you by. You sniff his cologne.

Scores an 8.7/10

BOW (91)